Needlework catalogs were printed in abundance. General interest and fashion magazines printed separate catalogs, as did design studios, fancywork suppliers, and needlework magazines. The catalogs usually have color covers and black and white drawings of the patterns, stamped linens, tools and supplies offered.

Today these old catalogs are primarily reference tools, but every once in a while you'll find a complete chart or pattern printed in an old catalog (like the one shown at right from an early 1900s German catalog). Quilt catalogs are the exception -- they usually depict single quilt blocks and the simple geometric lines make it easy to enlarge and use many of these antique patterns.

Expectations of the times

Knowing which category a publication falls into gives you a better idea of the content to expect. But even if you narrow your search to needlework magazines in hopes of finding period patterns, you may still be in for a surprise.

Embroidery motifs, like sewing patterns, are usually only available by mail order. A typical article shows the completed item with several paragraphs describing the fabric, colors and stitches used. It may include information about finishing the item (then again, it may not). Ordering information is typically in the photo caption and options may include pricing for a perforated pattern and/or a transfer pattern, stamped linen (often in a choice of fabric or colors) and embroidery cottons and silks. Some items could be ordered with the embroidery already started for an extra charge.

The odds of finding an original transfer matching a given design are very slim, but the good news is that the photographs are often detailed enough that you can recreate it. Try enlarging the photos with a copier or scanner, then tracing the outlines on tissue paper. Or you may be able to get a very similar effect using bits and pieces of motifs from other embroidery transfers you have on hand.

It also pays to keep an eye out for needlework magazines with color plates. Cross stitch patterns are particularly easy to recreate from color photos and many are suitable for needlepoint or purse beading as well. Other magazines use large photos of embroidery designs that clearly show stitch length, placement and shading. Our 1909 Brainerd & Armstrong magazine has not only clear color studies like the partial example shown at right, but also line-drawn diagrams that can be traced and transferred.

Crochet, knitting and tatting patterns are usually provided in their entirety. However, keep in mind that the average reader was expected to have a much higher skill level than we assume today. Consider these General Directions for Filet Crochet from the October 1916 issue of Home Needlework Magazine. The first two sentences read:

Filet crochet consists of blocks (bl) 4 t and spaces (sp) t on t, 2 ch, t on t. When more than one bl appears, the number of t should be 3 times the number of bl, plus 1 t.

No doubt this makes perfect sense if you've done filet crochet projects, but those of us who haven't got lost in the middle of the first sentence...

Thread or yarn types, stitch gauges and garment sizes will also pose a challenge. The knitting instructions for the vest shown here are perfectly understandable and the photo caption gives the required knitting needle sizes. We also learn that the vest requires 4 skeins of Spanish yarn. But without a yarn weight, stitch gauge, or even a given size for the completed vest when knitted as directed, trying to do one becomes a process of trial and error.

With tatting and crochet projects, you'll probably find the correct thread and hook size but stitch gauges and finished project sizes are rarely given. We did come across one pattern for a crocheted nightgown yoke that included a stitch gauge. Unfortunately, there are no instructions for attaching the finished yoke to the nightgown itself.

In short, these magazines do not have projects for beginning stitchers. Like early sewing patterns, they assume the user is proficient in basic techniques and comfortable with experimenting and adapting. It can be very rewarding to create an item from a vintage magazine, but it may not be easy.

Originals versus Reproductions

It is definitely possible to buy originals of old needlework magazines, even those dating back to the 19th century. Some are rarer than others and it may take a while to locate a particular issue. For example, you may search and find 50 or more copies of Modern Priscilla available for sale today -- but it may take a year before you can locate an original May 1918 issue of Modern Priscilla. The first few issues of any magazine are usually the most difficult to locate.

Your online search will also turn up numerous reproductions. These range from untouched photocopies to high-resolution scans that have been enhanced to provide a brighter background and remove stains, creases or other condition defects. A few include modern "translations" of the original directions. They may be available as stapled copies, as neatly bound printed pages, as professionally printed softcovers, or as PDF files on a CD or for download.

Certain titles, like the 1920s Ribbon Art shown here, are both popular and fairly easy to acquire. (Several originals come up for sale each year, Dover Publications has reprinted it, and it is available on CD from several different vendors.) So should you get an original or a reproduction? There's no right answer, but here are a few of the pros and cons to consider.

• Authenticity - If you're a serious collector, having an original is a must. The feel and scent of old paper (no, not musty smells!), the size of the booklet, turning the pages of a catalog that's 105 years old -- all provide part of the joy of collecting. You know that each page is just as it was published. Notes scribbled in the margins by a previous owner may add to the charm. But if you think all that sounds silly, then by all means consider reproductions.

• Availability - Some vintage and antique magazines are so hard to find that a reproduction may be your only realistic opportunity to get one. Concerned about copyright? Educate yourself about the basic rules and contact the seller if you have specific questions about a particular publication.

• Price and Future Value - Although you might not expect it, reproductions of fairly common titles can be more expensive than originals (scanning and digital enhancing takes a lot of time). Rare originals, of course, will be pricey, and those with color plates tend to cost more, too. On the other hand, originals are more likely than reproductions to increase in value and be salable in the future.

• Ease of Use - - Reproductions definitely have their advantages -- you won't want to take the chance of spilling coffee on your 100 year old original and you certainly won't want to fold it up and tuck it in your workbag. On the other hand, you may find the PDF files used for many downloadable or CD reproductions slow or clumsy to browse through or difficult to print. And you can always photocopy the pages from your original that you need for a particular project.

• Sharing/Resale - - An original antique magazine is probably in the public domain, allowing you to share copies with your stitching buddies or newsgroup -- or even produce your own reproductions if you like. But if you buy a reproduction, it is very likely to include a copyright claim or license that restricts your ability to share, copy, or even resell the reproduction. Be sure you understand any restrictions before you buy or download a reproduction.

Checking the Condition

The standard rule of collecting is to buy the best example you can find and afford, and that holds just as true for vintage needlework publications as anything else. If you're buying online, read the description carefully, look at the photos even more carefully, and ask questions.

Naturally, a 100-year-old magazine is not going to have the same pristine look as a just-released issue on sale at your favorite store. But the very best examples have all their pages and inserts and show minimal wear and tear. Page fading or yellowing is light and even. The covers are solidly attached and neither the cover or the pages are creased.

In the real world, most vintage magazines that have survived show various battle scars -- like brittleness and chipping, water stains, foxing, musty smells, creased, torn or loose pages or covers, writing, or torn-off address labels. The flaws may be understandable, but you should be aware of them before you buy AND willing to live with them. If not, wait for a better example to come along.

Needlework publications also have a few specific condition issues that come up from time to time. Here are a few we always keep in mind:

• Missing supplements - Some early magazines originally came with pattern or illustration supplements. (Our March 1877 issue of Young Ladies World refers to a "Gigantic Supplement" -- but who knows where or when the two were separated?) Supplements are very rare and add a premium to the price. If the description doesn't mention a supplement, don't assume it's there.

• Cutouts - People have been clipping things from magazines for as long as magazines have been published. The popularity of vintage ads, fashion plates and colored embroidery plates for their art value leads to more magazines being cut up every day. To make sure yours wasn't one of them:

  • ALWAYS turn every page of the magazine. Lay it flat on a table and take your time. Not all sellers bother to do this, and you can't be sure there aren't any cutouts (or other flaws) with a quick flip through the pages.

  • Check the pages numbers as you turn them, especially if the binding is weak or you find a loose page. Stapled publication have two pages printed on a single sheet of paper -- so if one is ripped out, the other will be unattached, too. If both are gone, you may not realize it until you notice that the page numbers skip (or an article doesn't make sense from one page to the next).

  • Check for stubs of paper near the spine, which is a warning that the page has been removed with a sharp blade. (Color plates often do not have page numbers. The stub prevents the other half of the page from coming loose, which preserves the magazine but makes removals harder to spot.) The publication's index -- or the article text -- will tell you what plates are supposed to be there.

• Water or moisture damage - Carefully check any photos provided for those telltale stains and ripples that indicate water damage -- and believe the photos rather than the written description. (Water damage is one of the most frequently undisclosed flaws we've come across when buying vintage paper items.) It may not prevent you from reading and enjoying the magazine, but it does affect the value.

• If it matters, verify the dating. Not all needlework publications are dated -- and some sellers are much better at dating vintage publications than others. (One reproduction we saw for sale had three different publication dates in the description.) So if you're looking for fashions or designs from a particular year or decade, use caution with undated items. Ask the seller how he or she arrived at the date given and be sure the answer makes sense.

If you find an undisclosed problem with a magazine you've purchased, contact the seller immediately. Plan to review your "new" magazine the day it arrives (no later than the day after) and don't delay reporting a problem. Everyone makes mistakes and reputable sellers will make good on theirs -- but be reasonable about the timing.

Learning More

There's a lot of information about vintage and antique magazines posted at various web sites that will help you learn more -- or just provide many pleasant hours of browsing. Here are some of the online resources we've found particularly useful:

History - Hundreds of web sites focus or touch on the history of magazine publishing. Narrow your search engine results a bit by entering the "Magazine Name" (in quotes) and the word published. Don't miss Thread Company-owned Magazines and other Printed Literature, one of the many excellent columns written by Joan Kiplinger and posted at Fabrics.Net, as a great source for those publications. For general interest womens magazines, try Magazine Art, where you'll find beautiful scans of covers arranged in albums. Most albums also include a brief historical summary for the publication.

Examples - Even if you have your heart set on an original, it's often helpful to see an example of the magazine. The volunteer Antique Pattern Library has scanned many early works into (licensed) PDF files for download -- although in some cases, only the crochet patterns have been scanned. For a detailed list of the contents and numerous page scans from vintage magazines, check the inventory at Leeflang Archives.  

Other links - We're not fond of long link lists, but if you want a comprehensive list of links to sites about vintage magazines, RASP (Research Society for American Periodicals) is the place to start.